End of a chapter

This is almost certainly our last posting, at least from Ecuador. We have decided to end our Peace Corps service so that we can return home and care for our new grandson. We are nearly as surprised as the Peace Corps staff we will be seeing soon in Quito.

We knew Renee and Travis were expecting before we reported for duty. We thought long and hard about whether we would be able to leave a grandchild and return to Ecuador to finish our remaining twenty or so months of service after visiting him. We decided we would be able to, and we were probably correct about that. What we did not anticipate was the difficulty Renee and Travis would have finding quality infant day care that made any economic sense. It was during our visit that we could see how poor their choices were, and the stress and concern it was causing them. It was then that we decided that the best choice, and probably the only realistic choice, was for us to provide the care in our home. We will be dividing the duties, and each of us plans to work approximately half time.

We will be staying in some space some church friends have available while our niece and her family make arrangements to move, probably to Pennsylvania.

It was very difficult for me (Marguerite) to say adios to the fifty or so children and adolescents with whom I was working as well as the local volunteers in the communities. They were so receptive of me even with my terrible Spanish. I will definately miss them and am left with a feeling of sadness because I think I could have made a little bit of a difference. Hopefully, someone will soon take my place. On a brighter note, I am looking forward to spending a lot of time with our grandson.

So, we travel to Quito on Monday, the 13th, and fly home either Thursday or Friday.

La Chocolatera

First of all, this has nothing to do with chocolate, unfortunately. It's about the land that forms the very tip of the Santa Elena peninsula. "Choco" comes from the Spanish verb that means "to collide". "Tera" just means earth. The peninsula is where the northern and southern currents in the Pacific collide. It's a great place for birds and nature in general.

The first photo shows a group of blue footed boobies (again). Our faithful readers will remember when we were so tickled to see just one.

Next comes the coastline looking north.

Another view due west shows the volcanic nature of the bedrock, and some more crashing waves.

Next we have one of Marguerite's closeup of some boobies, for a better look.  Earlier in the day, we were shown what good divers they are.

Finally, Marguerite's picture of a bird that is a mystery to us. Note the red bill, red feet, and the distinctive white plume feather. (Incidentally, I posted two topics today, so you may want to consider spooling further down if you are accustomed to my scant production of one post or so per week.)

 

Photo survey, or Adventures in Cropping

Most of the photos I post here have been cropped for one reason or another.  I would like to show you three versions of one photo, and invite you to comment on which of the cropped versions is the stronger image.

First, the original image.  I was looking out the door of the community center in Rio Verde when a vulture landed on the house across the road.  They tend to stay put for a while, so I stepped inside and got my camera.  Here is the photo as I framed it as I took it.

Now, the first cropping.  Note the yellow door is still included in the image.

And now the second cropping.  This one removes the color and leaves the black, grey, and rust.

Marguerite and I disagree on which is the stronger image.  You are invited to comment on which one you prefer.  

Marguerite's groups in Buena Fuente and Rio Verde

Buena Fuente is a small, poorer than average town right on the main road to Guayaquil.  Marguerite does a two hour weekly session with a group ages 9 to 11 (officially).  She does an hour of youth and family subject matter, and an hour of English.  The condition of the building and the artwork inside are typical of rural community centers.

The first two pictures are of Marguerite in action.  Some faces are blurred per policy.  Looks a lot like the last Peace Corps ad you've seen, doesn't it?

The third picture is of the church opposite the community center.  I was struck by the unassuming simplicity, particularly the plain wooden cross and the bell over the door.

 

 

 

 

Rio Verde is a bigger town a little further down the road.  As you can see in the following pictures, their center is much newer and bigger.  Interestingly, it has been doubling as a church while the regular one is being refurbished.  Marguerite has two groups in this town.

 

 

 

 

I am also showing the church being redone.  Note the billboard proudly announcing the use of government funds.  Finally, a look at the pigs that figured so prominently in an earlier post.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Walk in our Neighborhood

We took the family's puppy on a walk around the neighborhood. It was a muggy and overcast Saturday afternoon, which is why the sky is go grey, and why there are no highlights or shadows.

 

We encountered a "parquecita" (little park) that we soon learned was built and apparently funded by the parents in the neighborhood. You didn't have to understand Spanish to hear the pride in the voice of the father who told us about it.

 

 

As I was preparing the last photo, I noticed some landmarks on the horizon, so I cropped it further so that you could pick them out. Starting at around 11:00 from Marguerite's shoulder, you can see the matched towers from the iglesia in the town square. Further to the left is a new church being built on the highest point in the city. Just to the left of that is a new park, which you can't see, and an enormous flag that everyone can see.

 

Just behind the park is a large hollow that has as much green as we have seen in one place in this province. We saw some birds flitting around. That bare spot in the center near the back is a clearing where some cows and chickens were grazing.

 

Further along, we encountered a church with some interesting murals along a wall. There is a basketball court there, apparently part of the church property.

 

The final photo is some of the imagery used in the murals.

  

Grandson!!

First things first.  Renee Wilson Beall and Travis Beall have brought a son into the world.  The little bruiser was 8 lbs, 4 oz., and 20 inches long.  Baby, mother, father, and all four grandparents are doing fine.  He's already getting good grades from Dr. Apgar.

Another beach trip

First of all, life here is not just going to the beach.  Some of the Volunteers who serve in Africa and other tough places sometimes refer to us in Latin America as the Posh Corps, but we do work all week.  This is how we spent Sunday afternoon.  The weather has been warming a little lately, and we are getting more sunny days, which we are told is the normal pattern around here.

The pelicans were out in force today, flying in formation, and diving for food.

 

 



 

The tide was out, and we were able to walk in some rocky areas that had lots of little pools.  We saw some spiny urchins, and Marguerite got a picture of a weird crab.  We aren't really sure which part is the head.

 

 

Returning to the birds (as we always seem to do), we saw some sanderlings, one of our little favorites.

We noticed today that when a pelican dived for fish, a smaller bird would frequently soon join them.  We couldn't see why.   We've never noticed this on other continents.

 

 

 

 

After walking and exploring a good bit, we went to the waterfront where there several restaurants lined up in a row.  The one we tried was probably the best dining experience we have had since we got here.  Here's the rice with mixed seafood that Marguerite ordered.  Mine was similar, but it was rice with just shrimp.

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, I should acknowledge that my blog output could have been higher lately.  I've been a little sluggish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A birding trophy

The birding here has not been what we had hoped, but today we hit it lucky at the same beach we visited last weekend. In the first image, you see what Marguerite saw; a bird that didn't quite look familiar.

As we approached, and zoomed in, we saw this:

A blue-footed booby. It was a real treat to see such a distinctive bird.

Travel home

Most of you who follow this blog know that our daughter Renee and her husband Travis are expecting their first child, and our first grandchild.  Renee is due the middle of September.  We will be traveling home from October 1st through the 8th to meet and greet our grandson (and visit everybody else, too, of course).

Our first trip to a beach

The nearest beach to our house turned out to be a pretty nice one. The town is Ballenitas, which means little whales. It's about a 15 minute, 25 cent bus ride.

The first picture is of the beach from one of the public access points. The two female figures in the front are Marguerite and Maria Anabel, the sixteen year old who lives with us.

The second picture is of some fishing boats. Note the name on the leftmost boat. It caught my eye, and I couldn't resist.

A little further along there is a head which has been carved out of the rock. I know it's touristy, but it's not something you see every day.

The pelicans here seem to like to fly in squadrons. The birdwatchers among you will notice that half of them seem to be adults, and half are juveniles. That explains the two color schemes.

One of Marguerite's favorites here are the frigate birds. They're rare in the Carolinas, but very common around here Often while Marguerite walks home, she can look up and see as many as a dozen soaring overhead.

Finally, there were a number of dead puffer fish scattered on the beach. If you can't tell, that's an American quarter to indicate their size. I had never seen one in the flesh before.

Marguerite's second day teaching.

I got a lesson again about the commandment of the Peace Corps about how thou shalt be flexible. 
I was  giving a talk with my community volunteer in a village in the campo (in the country) in the community center.  So  I was quite busy and preoccupied with 10 kids which takes a lot of concentration when you are speaking in a foreign language or trying to.  I finally noticed that people were coming in and moving chairs and furniture, and many were wearing their finest.  The community volunteer explained they were preparing for a meeting.  After awhile a lady came over and asked  us to lower our voices.  As it turned out they were starting a Mass for a person who had passed away.  When we realized that a mass had started already, we quickly moved our stuff and I continued with the class outside.  Then I  noticed that we were beginning to have some new group members called chanchos (pigs).  Actually three little pigs, the size of  German Shepherds, but fatter. Animals of all types  in many villages are free range (really free range), which means your yard, front porch, etc.  Fortunately, the chanchos got bored pretty fast, and moved on.  The goats would have been more of a problem as we would have had to hold on to our papers.  Your class is in trouble when the goats butt in.   Also, I imagine "The dog ate it" would bring on new meaning.
 Anyway, we continued our class.  Then the kids wanted to learn some English:  they stayed over almost an hour to have an impromptu English class.  They seemed so proud of their newfound words, and I left feeling so good and had a smile on my face (oui, oui, oui) all the way home.  MW

Discovery Day Parade in Santa Elena

On Monday, the Santa Elena peninsula celebrated its "discovery" 487 years ago. You see it in quotes quite a bit. The reason is interesting. Ecuador is a mix of several ethnic groups. By far, the largest group is mestizos, who are a mix of the indigenous population, and the European latecomers. When you look at all the dark hair in the attached pictures, you will realize that the indigenous part of the mix is pretty strong. It's hard to pretend the peninsula was discovered by the Spanish when most everyone here has ancestors that were around a lot longer than 487 years ago.

As you might expect, I was looking forward to seeing what the bands in the parade were like. Most marching "bands" here consist of drums (lots of drums), some bells (metal xylophone like instruments) and sometimes some herald trumpets. Even some military units use that instrumentation. The Scots have their bagpipes, and Ecuador marches to tinkly little bells (and lots of drums).

The first picture shows a glimpse of a high school age "band". I chose this one because of the familiar pink figure in the background. He wasn't in the parade. That is one of the ubiquitous vendors.

The next photo is of some cartoon characters. I wish I could tell you more about them, but I couldn't read the sign if there was one.

Photo three is an example of some of the footwear some of the ladies marching in the parade chose to wear. There were lots of similar choices.

Photo number four is of a dance troupe, one of only a few. They are creating a ship to reflect the importance of fishing in the local culture and economy. Note the fragment of some interesting artwork on the government building in the background.

The final photo is of the crowd that gathered in the town park during and after the parade. You can see one of the church towers in the background.  Somewhere in that crowd were a few clowns with an incredible sound system.

 

 

 

Basilica of the National Vow

Marguerite visited a basilica in Quito on the Friday before we graduated. She took the pictures that follow.

Although the church was built in a very old style, the first stone was actually laid in 1892. The church was also built with public funds. The title of the church commemorates an act of the national assembly in 1874 which consecrated the nation of Ecuador to Jesus Sacred Heart.

The first picture is of the nave, which gives you a sense of the scale of the place. The second picture shows a view of the city from one of the windows. (I spent weeks trying to get a shot like that.) The third picture show the two towers close up from a opening near the roof. Note the time on the clocks.

Marguerite wondered aloud what it would be like to have an earthquake while she was visiting.  She had no way of knowing there would be one or two within a couple of weeks.

 

 

 

Safe and Sound in Santa Elena. 

Just to let all of you know who may have read about the earthquake in Quito, that we felt nothing as it is about 300 miles away.  We moved just in time, and to think that two weeks ago I was climbing around the top of the cathedral within only a couple of miles of the epicenter.  Fortunately, there were no buildings which came down.  It was the worst quake in 24 years in the city at a 5.1 and several bad aftershocks.  Four were killed due to landslide triggered by the quake and four are missing.  This is the tragic part of life on the Ring of Fire. 

I am enjoying my new job especially going out to the campo (boonies) and working with some of the sweetest kids and parents.  They are so tolerant of my "Spanish." 

Graduation Day and moving

We were sworn in as Volunteers on Tuesday. The Ambassador did the honors. Thirty eight of us started the training, and thirty seven finished. One of us who graduated has to go home for some surgery. He will join us later, if all goes according to plan. As it happens, he will be in Santa Elena province near us.

We moved on Wednesday, which happened to be our 31st anniversary. Marguerite got carsick coming down the Andes. The trip took thirteen hours. An anniversary like none other.

I was asked to sing the Ecuadorian National Anthem at the beginning of the ceremony.  So, I found it online, studied and practiced the Spanish like mad. Whoever set the words to the music had a nasty habit of putting two and even three syllables on a dotted eighth note.  With some effort, the staff found me a recording so that I could be sure about which sections repeated, etc.  Came the big moment, and the sound system wasn't working.  After waiting a few minutes, we decided I would lead the group unaccompanied.  It wasn't really an Ecuador moment, it was a technology moment.

Marguerite volunteered to be one of the student speakers. It happens that the lady who spoke with her is from North Carolina, and graduated from NC State only 40 years after Marguerite where she attended for her first two years. The first picture is of them speaking.

The next picture is of the graduating class. As I said once before, they are a fine group, and you would be proud of them. We've gotten pretty attached to each other over the three months. Some of us will be keeping in touch.
　

The third picture is of our Tumbaco host family. There is a tradition of each class creating a mural. Since the Peace Corps will not be using the center any longer, ours was painted on canvas. It follows the style of a famous Ecuadorian artist; Oswaldo Guayasamín. You can't see it, but we all signed the mural on the bottom.

The final picture is of us with our Santa Elena host mother on the left, and the ambassador. The poor guy posed for a lot of pictures that day. I guess it goes with the job.